If you take off the right rear wheel, you can get to the three bolts for the guide that keeps the belt on the transmission pulley. Once that is off, changing the belt is not too bad. Patience and foul language will help some.

A word of warning. Recent Sears belts and all commercial or industrial belts are so aggressive I had a real problem releasing the clutch on my ST12 after the belt got hot. After several smashed downspouts and shrubs I finally started to paraffin the outside surface of the belt several times during mowing just so I could stop if I had to. It got so bad I was thinking of getting a (choke) Cub Cadet or even a John Deere. Instead I found a belt with a low friction cover made just for clutch work. The difference was amazing. I don't have the brand and belt number right now, but if you are interested I can look it up.

THANKS FOR THE HELP!! DON'T WORRY, I'M SURE THERE WILL BE PLENTY OF FOUL LANGUAGE FLYING!!